Sagadahoc Stories #95: 6/8/99

Island Breeze


Crops in the field
Last week had some moments of pure delight. Barefoot early mornings with vegetables. A spell of fine planking. Riots of flowers and bowls full of salad. Butterflies in the noon stillness. Bats on the edge of dark. A couple of those days you wait all year for in Maine.

Then there's a payback. That summer visitor you wished had stayed home comes for an extended stay. Hot and sultry, and full of discontent. She blows in on a smoky southwester, smelling of the highway, and proceeds to confuse the issue.You get dizzy and irritable. Everything you lay hand to goes upside down. The Red Bitch of the South is in town.

Roses

It's been hot enough to boil your brain, if you left it outside. Middays in the high 90's, thick humidity, fine imported ozone to make you wheeze. August weather in early June. This boatyard has no shelter to hide in, and I'm as tanned as a tropical sailor. Did they say the fire next time?

I kept planking the baby's bottom, but my oomph was running low. Paintings, carvings, even the big sculpture, have a cycle of inspiration, creation, and completion which culminates before the moon returns. This Millennium Toad is just one long friggit. It's beginning to feel like a day job.


Port Clyde
Mr. Mann has been inviting me to make an island getaway, but I've been too stove up trying to get this ark constructed. Begrudging every moment I couldn't be screwing pine on oak. By Saturday morning I was so frazzled and fried I seized his latest offer with both claws. He and I and Theo and CC hopped in the Hondacar and zagged for Port Clyde.

It's still early in the season along the shore, and there was parking on the pier, with no gawkers. We loaded our kit in the well skiff and rode a light chop around to Clam Cove. The cottage Mr. Mann caretakes for Mary is on the backside of Hupper Island, and you can offload your freight on a bit of shingle nearby at high tide, seas willing. They were, and we did. Left Theo at the cottage, and circumnavigated the island, found a haul out to put the boat on, and hiked back across.

The woods road was dry, and the mosquitoes absent, so ambling through the choked and cloistered spruce was an unharried exercise in unwind. Island woods are as thick with memories as with deadfalls, and I get caught between times, in the scent of bracken and the crunch of dry sphagnum underfoot.

Hupper International

We stopped in a swaying grove of bare-boled trees where the sun filtered down, listening to the creak and chuckle of the older residents. We laughed for the company. On the backside of the island that southwest wind made a steady whooshing through the veg, and the power cable fastened to the cottage griped and groaned like a sour fiddle.


Lighthouse View
We'd packed in lobster and beer and the usual bagful of grumbles, and, as usual, the sea-bounced sun and the worry of water on granite made us hungry for ingests, and forgetful of the baggage. I moved off into that summer space which hovers between tears and torpor.

My eyes were too busy to let my hands go numb, though, and I proceeded to sketch and color like mad, as if to make up for all the time lost ark building. I'd left Olympus home, on the assumption that I'd be doing plein airs and didn't need the digital companion, but I was soon sorry. So much of the richness of the shore is in redundancies. Millions of tiny mussels between billions of tiny barnacles. The profuse swirlings of igneous intrusions, fractured and piled by millennial forces. Beyond my powers to illustrate. Maybe beyond photography. Mr. Mann led me out to a point where the entire cosmos is portrayed in stone. Enough to make your head spin. Or was it the lager?

In Color


Island Jeep
Saturday night we retreated to the cottage theater for a screening of family movies from the 50s. Not our family, though. The place comes with a collection of 16mm nostalgias, and the machinery to match. Snippets of period reportage, following a French family from triple deckers to asbestos-sided suburbs, from Old Orchard to Coral Gables. Seventh birthday cakes, and fun house mirrors. Susy's short-shorts and Uncle Joe's new station wagon. Duckwalk racing and sunbathing with cigarettes. Hilarious and sad, like the human condition. Remind me to burn all our old mementos.

Sunday morning I took my memories and the dog for an airing. It took me a while to realize the entire island was in bloom. Every least shrub and creeper putting out its colors and scents for the height of sun. Wild roses in heady pink. Beach peas in uncapturable violet. High- and low-bush blueberries. Butterblossoms and milleflora. Indian paintbrush and snake-eyes. The evergreens were dense with new candles, heavy with cones. Trails of fragrance ran down the rising wind. Hard to be heartsick in bee-heaven.

Clam Cove


Mr. Mann
Dog nirvana, too. A new catch toy every few yards. Floats and buoys, lost balls and driftwood galore. CC knew what we were there for, and ran all day, capering like a pup. We paused here and there to just soak it up, and put a piece on paper. Burrowing into the hushed thickets and dense spruce. Debouching onto the windy ledges. Nosing into the tidepools, leaning against rocks in a sunny lee.

The visual extravagance was matched by astonishing fecundity. I misspent a chunk of my youth just alongshore from here, capturing crustaceans and identifying the wrack, but I don't remember the protoplasm being so thick. Are my eyes wider, or is there a bloom happening, as the planet warms and the sky is full of gas? The exuberance of sun-struck vegetables might just be the moment, but the explosion of microfauna is like a millennial celebration. I hoorawed, and the dog barked.

Monhegan Ferry

Our excuse for this episode was to prep the cottage for a couple arriving Sunday afternoon, and to guide them in. By 3PM it was blowing hard outside, and a back shore arrival out of the question. When we crossed to Port Clyde it was starting to spit, and dark scud was pushing over from seaward. While Mr. Mann did the honors I hung round the docks and sketched. A dive boat was getting ready to take photographers to Monhegan, and I chatted them up. They reported that the profusion of life out there matches what I'd seen in the pools, and the excitement in their eyes made me long for a dry suit and tanks.

A couple was casting for mackerel off the float and they were slaying them. The young woman was breathless with delight. "I just caught FIVE on one cast," she declared. Her guy was busy unhooking them and filling a cooler. "We'll use them for striper bait down to Westport," he told me. When the dive boat pulled away from the float, it began to pitch and heave, as the rising swells tossed it, unprotected.

Mackerel


Backwater Idyll
I ran downwind to the inner harbor, and admired a pair of young men messing about on their wharf across the water. Here was an idyll I once yearned for, and it still smells good. A shack by the ocean on a quiet cove, with a boat at my feet, and a whole life around me. Never mind the wet butt and the pickup payments. There I was, an old geek with a sketchpad, gawping at the life. I felt like a damned tourist in vacationland.

We hit the home turf about dark, and woke up to another broiler. Guy and Darryl dripping on the roof, Seth building new stairs, and the boat geek planking up her bottom. We were about cooked by mid-afternoon, and they'd just buttoned up the roof with a layer of tarpaper when the micro-burst struck. Hurricane force winds tearing limbs and tossing the details. Buckets of rain. No damage done here, but the burst took down a tree in Guy's dooryard, blocked the road, and tore all the wires away. An hour later it was sunny and hot as ever. Makes you wish you had a boat in the water. Or a place on an island.

Seth on Stairs

Next Dispatch Previous Dispatch Dispatch Index Home Index